It was really very special. Having contacted the guy in question the previous weekend, I ended up hanging around in South West Rocks longer than planned (not a bad thing) in order to be able to visit his place. Unbeknown to me at the time, he runs only two 'tours' per week for a maximum group of four down to, as in this case, just one. I was "keen" enough in my emails to him to secure a slot! It was worth it...
The background: the chap I was meeting is Dennis. In 1918 his grandfather started farming this piece of land and, as was the case then, the government financially encouraged him to drain the area of wetland. He failed, thankfully. Dennis spent a few childhood years there and then went off to be a Structural Engineer in Sydney. The farm went to his uncle who, in 1989, offered Dennis 110 acres including the wetlands. Dennis moved back with two aims... To preserve the wetlands and to grow threatened and endangered species of bush fruits and trees. The place is magic!
I got there, as agreed, for 7:30am and was met by the most gentle, welcoming and genuine Dennis. He explained that he is trying to balance the need to raise awareness of the wetlands, and the necessary cash to keep it well-managed, against the desire to not make it too tourist intensive.
We got straight on the water and he paddled me around the wetland area for two truly amazing hours.
It was beautifully peaceful and calm with only the bird-calls hanging in the air along with Dennis' fascinating commentary on all things flora & fauna as well as the history of the place.
The wetlands is home to 400 Black Swans, Flycatchers, Azure Kingfishers which were darting across the water, Jabirus, a pair of Ospreys that nest there every year and more than 100 other species of birds. The water is packed with prawns and is now officially recognised as one of the major Mullet nurseries on the east coast... The water was teeming with them which is where they stay until a flood takes them into the river system and the ocean. Eels were cruising next to us, there were areas covered with water lilies and some exceptionally rare orchids.
I could keep going all day about the place! It was truly magical and I felt very privileged to see it.
When he first bought the place he struggled for years to get any government recognition of the wetlands' importance and it sounds like he had to persevere (up to parliament level) for many years to get to where he is. He gets no State financial input but now, at least, the place is recognised as a rare and essential example of Coastal wetlands in Australia, worth preserving, with scientific interest ever increasing. (as an example of bureaucracy, Dennis has to, in fact, pay a levy each year for owning 'farm land' that he doesn't graze cattle on... Even though it's under water!).
The second part of the morning was spent walking around his land... 100's of Macadamia trees, citrus groves, an amazing organic veg patch and hundreds of endangered "bush tucker" trees... Much of the citrus produce is 'rare' and his wife value-adds by turning them into jams etc. I was so enthralled that I forgot to take any photo's but walking through the trees he would stop to have me taste...
Finger Limes:
looked just like Okra (or Ladies' Fingers or Bhindi Bhaji... I know M Beglan will be rolling around on the floor at this 'joke' but everyone else will be wondering what I'm talking about!)
Anyway, when you break them in half they are full of what looks like translucent caviar... Each little bubble pops in your mouth with an amazing lime flavour... Brilliant in salads and on seafood apparently. "Bush Caviar"... Fantastic!
Lemonades:
a small citrus fruit that looked like a large lime however it can be eaten like an orange and, I don't exaggerate in the slightest when I say, they taste like the best lemonade you've ever had. I could have sat next to that tree and eaten them all day!
We passed trees whose leaves, when he picked one and passed it to me, tasted of liquorice and then another of lemon and so it went on. I tried a "Bush Plum" that is now recognised as having incredibly high levels of detox power. Leaves whose inherent chemicals are now used in surgery, those that led to the application of penicillin; and many more besides. Fascinating, educational and, all round, an amazing place.
Dennis then made me some pancakes and ice-cream with which to sample the jams and syrups they make along with some gorgeous figs he popped off to pick for us. All thoroughly delicious!
The final piece of this jigsaw is that the Aborigines knew all about, and used, these 'bush tucker' and 'bush medicine' trees and plants thousands of years ago. Western medicine is now only just taking them seriously with credible and applicable results. The path of the Aborigines has been somewhat troubled recently and much knowledge has been lost within their communities so Dennis runs school-workshops, teaching the kids about their lost knowledge.
I'm sure these ramblings might be quite dull without photo's punctuating them so here's a final one of Dennis pointing out something or other...
We chatted for a while longer then, after 5 hours there, I headed off for the hustle and bustle of the real world. All for £40!
The story of that day would not be properly represented without mentioning that, sadly, whilst on the water, we discovered a shared experience of leukaemia. He lost his daughter when she was in her twenties. Tough old world.
I'm so glad I got to visit him and see his extraordinary, little slice of paradise... We need more people like Dennis fighting for what is important!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Valley of the Mist
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